The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C8-lipohydroxy acid

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Mar;6(1):59-65. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00296.x.

Abstract

The hydroxy acids are widely used in skin creams because of their exfoliating and rejuvenating effect on photoaged skin. As a member of this family, the salicylic acid derivative known in the literature as 2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid or beta-lipohydroxy acid has also been proposed as an exfoliant and as a treatment of photoaged skin and acne. This article reviews the effects of the hydroxy acids and compares them to those of the salicylic acid derivative. We propose the name C(8)-lipohydroxy acid (C8-LHA) for this derivative to differentiate it from other related compounds. The lipophilic nature of C8-LHA and its relatively slow penetration in the skin afford it an exfoliating effect that is efficient at low concentrations. It appears to have antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticomedogenic properties, which make it effective against acne. Its antifungal and exfoliating properties are also likely to prove useful in combating dandruff.

Publication types

  • Comparative Study
  • Review

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Cutaneous
  • Facial Dermatoses / drug therapy
  • Facial Dermatoses / pathology
  • Female
  • Follow-Up Studies
  • Humans
  • Hydroxy Acids / chemistry
  • Hydroxy Acids / therapeutic use*
  • Male
  • Risk Assessment
  • Salicylates / chemistry
  • Salicylates / therapeutic use*
  • Sensitivity and Specificity
  • Skin Absorption
  • Skin Aging / drug effects*
  • Skin Aging / pathology
  • Skin Diseases / diagnosis
  • Skin Diseases / drug therapy*
  • Skin Irritancy Tests
  • Treatment Outcome

Substances

  • Hydroxy Acids
  • Salicylates