Mild extraction methods using aqueous glucose solution for the analysis of natural dyes in textile artefacts dyed with Dyer's madder (Rubia tinctorum L.)

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been widely used as a red dye throughout history. Acid-sensitive colorants present in madder, such as glycosides (lucidin primeveroside, ruberythric acid, galiosin) and sensitive aglycons (lucidin), are degraded in the textile back extraction process; in previous literature these sensitive molecules are either absent or present in only low concentrations due to the use of acid in typical textile back extraction processes. Anthraquinone aglycons alizarin and purpurin are usually identified in analysis following harsh back extraction methods, such those using solvent mixtures with concentrated hydrochloric acid at high temperatures. Use of softer extraction techniques potentially allows for dye components present in madder to be extracted without degradation, which can potentially provide more information about the original dye profile, which varies significantly between madder varieties, species and dyeing technique. Herein, a softer extraction method involving aqueous glucose solution was developed and compared to other back extraction techniques on wool dyed with root extract from different varieties of Rubia tinctorum. Efficiencies of the extraction methods were analysed by HPLC coupled with diode array detection. Acidic literature methods were evaluated and they generally caused hydrolysis and degradation of the dye components, with alizarin, lucidin, and purpurin being the main compounds extracted. In contrast, extraction in aqueous glucose solution provides a highly effective method for extraction of madder dyed wool and is shown to efficiently extract lucidin primeveroside and ruberythric acid without causing hydrolysis and also extract aglycons that are present due to hydrolysis during processing of the plant material. Glucose solution is a favourable extraction medium due to its ability to form extensive hydrogen bonding with glycosides present in madder, and displace them from the fibre. This new glucose method offers an efficient process that preserves these sensitive molecules and is a step-change in analysis of madder dyed textiles as it can provide further information about historical dye preparation and dyeing processes that current methods cannot. The method also efficiently extracts glycosides in artificially aged samples, making it applicable for museum textile artefacts.